Sewing Side Pleats and the yoke

The first step directed us to staystitch the neck and pleat the shoulders. Staystitching happens so much that it really deserved its own post. So now we'll handle the second part of the first instructions and #2 on the instructions. Pleats are used similarly to darts; to control fullness in a garment. There are two basic types of pleats side pleats and box pleats.

Box pleats are formed with a front box where each pleat faces opposite directions and the back folds face each other.

Box pleats can also be inverted with the box on the inside and the folds on the front. 

This time we will be sewing side pleats (knife pleats when they are pressed firmly). Pleats should be pressed in the direction they will lay in and stay stitched across the top.

Our directions tell us "To make pleats in forward shoulder edge of front, on inside, bring broken lines together. Stitch along broken lines. Press pleats away from center. Baste across raw edge." So basically we're sewing very short pleats on the inside of the front shoulder. If you're sewing pleats close together its best to pin and sew one then pin and sew the next as the pins will get in the way. Here is how the steps look when you're doing it.

Its easiest to pin and sew one at a time. This was done to demonstrate how they should look pinned

Sewn in place

Pressed outward and stitched.

Finished pleats from the right side. 

Don't forget to finish by pressing the pleats towards the outside and then again from the right side. Make sure to lay your iron just to the edge of the pleats so you don't smush the rest of the fabric. 

 

The next step is to sew the yoke pieces to the front. This isn't a traditional yoke but a yoke none the less. The directions tell us "with RIGHT sides together, stitch yoke front sections to forward shoulder edges of front. Press seam toward yoke."  They include a very important illustration 

Note the locations of the darts. On small pieces that are roughly the same size all the way around this is the only way to tell which way they should be sewn together.  In this case the notches are towards the back of the dress and away from the neck.

 The next pictures show how to sew on the yoke.

Yoke pinned, right (pretty) sides together and the seam lines are marked.

Sewn seam. Don't forget to clip the thread and press the seams. 

Seam pressed towards the yoke. 

Finished pleats and yoke. 

Next up is sewing the ties, sewing them to the back of the dress, and sewing darts.

Best Online Sewing Resources

While I find my books to be incredibly helpful sometimes they don't explain it too well. So here are a somewhat carefully composed list of the best sewing resources on the internet in no particular order. If I missed anything great please leave it in a comment

Best Websites:

Pattern Review- You have to sign up but that's free and there is so much sewing info all in one spot... one of the best sections on sewing machine reviews I've seen and like the title says lots of pattern reviews as well. They also teach classes. http://sewing.patternreview.com/

Burdastyle- The inspiration on the projects page is the best, but they also have a great forum section and tons of great PDF patterns http://www.burdastyle.com/

Singer's Stitch Reference page- Wondering what all those stitches do? Here is where you find it. http://www.singerco.com/sewing-resources/stitch-reference

Need to figure out how much fabric you need? http://www.getcreativeshow.com/seminars/yardage-reqirements.htm

Textile Dictionary- Simply put every fabric related term you'll ever come across http://www.fabriclink.com/Dictionaries/Textile.cfm

Need to know what your fabric is made out of? Here's a site that tells you how to do the burn test http://www.ditzyprints.com/dpburnchart.html

Wondering how best to take care of your sewing machine? New Mexico State University can help there http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/C102.pdf

Craftsy teaches online, live streamed classes http://www.craftsy.com/

Threads Magazine tutorials, videos, lots of info http://www.threadsmagazine.com/

Vintage Pattern Wiki lots of info and links for vintage patterns http://vintagepatterns.wikia.com/wiki/Main_Page

Best Facebook Groups:

Sewing it Up Sewing for Beginners- Hands down the best beginner sewing group on facebook. And the inspiration for starting this blog https://www.facebook.com/groups/SewingItUp/

Sewing  A bit more advanced but a lot of really experienced sewers here https://www.facebook.com/groups/2413823996/

Vintage Sewing Machines https://www.facebook.com/groups/VintageSewingMachines/

Pattern Destashing https://www.facebook.com/groups/paperpatterns/

Fabric Destashing https://www.facebook.com/groups/Fabric.Destashing/

Best Pinterest Pages:

http://www.pinterest.com/sstoval3/sewing-projects/

http://www.pinterest.com/clairesews/

http://www.pinterest.com/nanapana/sewing/

http://www.pinterest.com/francios/sewing/

http://www.pinterest.com/dejagal/sewing/

http://www.pinterest.com/sentimentalbaby/sewing-tips-tutorials/

http://www.pinterest.com/llinebaugh/sewing-drafting-draping/

Best Youtube Channels:

https://www.youtube.com/user/BRemlinger

https://www.youtube.com/user/relindesigns

https://www.youtube.com/user/Threads

https://www.youtube.com/user/ThreadBanger

https://www.youtube.com/user/AllFreeSewing

https://www.youtube.com/user/SewingAdventure

https://www.youtube.com/user/sewmarm

https://www.youtube.com/user/smarmyclothes

https://www.youtube.com/user/SewingArtsCenter/

Best Blogs: 

Lingerie sewing http://clothhabit.com/

Great blog with more advanced sewing http://juliasewing.blogspot.com/

Male Pattern Boldness- sewing for guys  http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/

Gertie's Blog for Better Sewing, the best blog for sewing vintage style stuff https://www.facebook.com/groups/2413823996/

Crafty Gemini- Great free beginners tutorials and patterns http://craftygemini.blogspot.com/


Now back to your regularly scheduled content.

Staystitching

Most patterns require stay stitching. Stay stitching is a single row of straight stitches designed to prevent stretching. It is sewn in the seam allowance, usually 1/8" from the seam line, so for a 5/8" seam allowance it would be sewn 1/2" from the cutting edge, so that it will not show on the outside of the garment. Staystitching should be done before any other construction as construction can cause considerable stretching.

Try an experiment with a small scrap of fabric. Cut a curve, take either end of the curve and yank on it. Once you release you will see how much it has stretched out of place.

Most patterns will tell you which edges you should stay stitch; if they don't, any curved edge can be staystitched including necklines, armscyes, princess seams, waistline, and pants crotch seams. Stay stitching should be done in what is called directional stitching. This means to start at the top and continue to the bottom. So one would start at the upper edges of the neckline and stitch down to the center. For the armscye start from the shoulder and sew down to the underarm.

When staystitching there is no need to backstitch just use a regular straight stitch and clip off the extra thread. Staystitching can be done with a normal stitch length but it is best done with a smaller stitch length. If you have a computerized machine 1.5mm stitch length is ideal.

This time our instructions tell us:

"1. Stay-stitch front neck edge 1/2" from cut edge in direction of arrows.
This stitching stays in permanently and helps prevent stretching on curved edges.
Stay-stitching will not be shown in the following illustrations."

Here I have used a seam gauge to mark 1/2" from the cutting edge.

Always staystitch top to bottom

Finished staystitching on the front neck.

Part one also instructs us to sew the pleats but that's for the next post.

Pressing not Ironing

Before we get started you should know how to press things correctly. Pressing makes the difference between a garment looking professional and looking like a drunken 5 yr old made it. Often new sewers don't press because they are in a hurry to complete a project, don't fall into this trap! Many new sewers make the mistake of ironing instead of pressing. Most just don't know there is any difference. Remember the construction basics: sew, clip, press. For basic pressing you'll need an ironing board and iron. Later you will need a tailor's ham and either a sleeve roll or sleeve board.

Ironing vs Pressing.

Ironing is to remove wrinkles and is done and a back and forth motion. The goal of pressing is to shape the fabric. Pressing involves putting the iron on a single place, holding it, then lifting and moving.  This is designed to prevent stretching or distortion during construction. Pressing is used to make seams and darts lie flat and round sleeve caps.

How to Press

Pressing should be done with moist heat and not moved until it has dried. If your iron drips when you use the steam settings you can either use a moist press cloth or a spray bottle to dampen your fabric. Seams should be pressed as soon as they are sewn. Pressing pants or sleeves (or any other tube) should be done on a sleeve roll or sleeve board. This should be done by placing the iron firmly on the seam and pressing the seam for approximately 15 seconds.

From the wrong side of the fabric (the side the seams are on) open the seams up and press them open.

 The flip the garment to its right side and press the seam from that side.

And you have a pressed seam that looks like it belongs on a professionally made garment. 

Curved seams will need to be pressed on a tailor's ham.

In general:
Waistline seams should be pressed up
Darts toward the center front or center back
Double pointed darts should be clipped in the middle and pressed towards the center.
Armscye and crotch seams are pressed together towards the interior of the garment and trimmed.

Starting construction

This pattern has a series of 14 steps to complete the garment. The rough order of construction is as follows. Often in an effort to explain things thoroughly patterns are a little too wordy for beginners. Don't let all that scare you, here are the basics and each step will have its own separate instructions.

1. Stay Stitch front neck and sew pleats

2. Stitch yoke to front piece

3. Make tie

4. Sew tie to the back and stay stitch back neck

5. Sew back darts

6. Stitch front to back at the shoulder seams

7. Apply fusible interfacing, stitch shoulder seams of facings, and edge finish facings

8. Sew facing to neckline.

9. Understitch facing.

10. Stitch from to back at side seams.

11. Apply bias tape to arm holes.

12. Understitch bias tape.

13. Close bias tape.

14. Edge finish and hem.

Before you start always remember Sew, Clip, Press.

Sew your seam, clip the threads and seams to reduce bulk, press the seam.

Transferring Markings to Fabric

After cutting out your fabric you will need to transfer markings to the fabric. This particular pattern we will transfer darts, notches, pleat lines, stitch lines, and dots to mark tie placement. 

Always transfer markings to the wrong (ugly) side of the fabric. Notches are marked with a single snip down the center of each triangle. The others are traced onto the fabric directly. Make sure not to cut so far you cut through the seam line.

There are many options for marking fabric. I prefer Pilot Frixion pens but you can use tailors chalk, marking pens, chalk wheels, etc. Whatever method you choose be sure to test it to make sure it can be removed. Pilot Frixion pens iron out (and on delicate fabric you don't even have to touch it with the iron). When cutting on single side with the right side up I find wax paper and a tracing wheel the easiest to use.

This time we will be cutting on the fold with wrong sides out so we will use pens to mark the fabric. 

To help mark the fabric its best to put pins at all the dots, end points, and pivot points. Make sure you mark both sides of the fabric and that you distinguish between larger and smaller dots.

To mark darts or stitch lines run pins lengthwise down the marked stitchlines then gently tug the pattern back and mark. Pins have the benefit of going through both sides so you don't have to flip the pattern repin and do it again. 

Pin the circles straight through and the seam lines lengthwise

Pull gently back to reveal the outline of the dart

Flipping it will reveal the dart outline on the other side

Once its roughed out use a ruler to finish it.

Finished Dart. Not large and small circles are marked as are dart points.

Note your fabric should be washed, folded, and ironed to prevent wrinkling.

Cutting your Fabric

Cutting your Fabric

Helpful Hint: The right side of the fabric is whichever side you think is prettier. Its the side that will show when the garment is made. Sometimes you can use the “wrong” side of a fabric for a more muted effect. Remember most sewing is done “right” sides together.

Finally ready to cut the fabric. You have your pattern cut out to the largest size and clipped you should examine your pattern carefully. Each piece should be numbered, have the name of the piece -for example front yoke, the name of the pattern company and the number, the letters of the designs that use it, and cutting instructions.

Sometimes you have pattern pieces that they can't fit all the info on like this one

Write wherever there is empty space, how many and of what. This piece needs 1 of fabric and 1 of interfacing cut on the fold. Then cut off the excess. You finished piece should look like this:

Helpful Hint: Make sure you do any writing and highlighting with a pen and BEFORE you put it on the fabric, ink WILL bleed through your pattern onto the surface under it. Since people often press patterns, ink won't damage your iron, some other forms of marking will. Don't use the pilot frixion pens though, they come off with heat. 

Another good reason to check your pattern is to check for important details or errors. This pattern the belt has a 3/8" seam. I find highlighting that information helpful (again even highlighter will bleed through so do this before its on the fabric)

Be sure to catch and correct any errors early. This one was simple enough to trace back out.

We'll assume your fabric is 45”. You'll fold your fabric right (pretty) sides together with the selvages (not the cut edges) together. In case you don't know what a selvage is or how it looks, its the self finished edge of the fabric, perpendicular to the cut line from the store. In a woven it is usually the same color but has a slightly different (usually tighter) weave, in a print its usually white/offwhite and often has the makers information. Here are examples of each:

Helpful Hint: Remember right sides together (wrong sides out) when cutting things on the fold (double layers) and right side up when cutting single side.

Next you'll follow the layout on the instruction sheet. With your fabric folded first choose the items that need to be put on the fold line. In this case that's pieces 1, 3, and 5. The mark to place on a fold usually looks like this

Helpful Hint: If you don't have enough room for all your fabric on one cutting surface use a chair back to support the excess so it doesn't drag off. 

Place the pointed arrows towards the fold line in your fabric, smooth fabric, and pin in place. Repeat for the other items.

Once you are done pinning the items on the fold its time to pin the rest of the items. The placement doesn't matter as much on these items (ie squeeze them in where you can) as long as they are even along the grain. To make sure you're even along the grain take a ruler or measuring tape and measure from one end of the grain line to the selvage, then measure from the other end of the grain line to the selvage. If your numbers are even you are on grain, if they are not, adjust one side til they are. 

On this pattern the layout you may notice that some of the pattern pieces are shaded. Shaded pieces go with the print pattern side down. You can see this in the above picture of the two pieces on the fold line. The upper piece (piece 5) is placed with the print side down. 

 Here's a recap: 

Also note that pattern piece 6 needs 1 cut on the fold but there isn't enough room. There are 3 ways to handle this.

1. Follow the pattern layout and pin it one way, cut that side flip it over and pin it and cut that side so that you have one long piece.

2. See if there is enough room on your fabric to squeeze it in on the fold. 

3. Trace the pattern piece onto a folded up sheet of tracing paper and use that. It works like option 1 but without having to flip the piece over. 

Sizing up For Plus Sizes

Sizing up For Plus Sizes

I use the method Barbara Deckert uses in her book Sewing for Plus Sizes. If you are plus size or regularly sew for someone who is I highly recommend this book.

You will need to take your measurements, the pattern size, and the amount to be adjusted. To find this take your measurements, the pattern measurements, and figure out the total change, some may be down so don't worry about that. Write down your calculations making sure to use a plus or minus sign to denote adding or subtracting width.

	Your measurement	Pattern Size	Amount to Be Adjusted	Adjustment per Seam
Bust
Waist
Hips

Once you have calculated the amount to be adjusted count the vertical seams excluding the center front and center back. On this dress with just a front and back there are 4. Divide the amount to be adjusted by the number of vertical seams (4 in this case). If your fractions end up strange round UP to the nearest 8^th. This amount is how much you will add or subtract from the cutting line. Mark each adjustment at the bust, waist, and hips on each seam and trace a line from each mark to the next. Its best to do this in a colored pen so you will see your lines.

Helpful Hint: If your adjustments are over 10 inches, counting the center back and center front will help keep the balance of the design. They would count as 4 more edges.

Preparing to Cut

Before cutting the fabric there are some things you need to do.

First off you should preshrink your fabric. Do this by washing and drying the fabric the way you plan to launder it once its made. Some fraying is normal, just work around it.

Next you'll need to straighten the grain. You can test the grain but almost all fabrics are a little bit off so its easiest to just straighten it. Do this by pulling diagonally on opposite corners, then pulling diagonally on the other set of corners. Like this:

You should also true the pattern if its fitted and you aren't sure about how it will fit. This pattern is very basic and loose so you won't need to do that with this one. We'll do that with the next tutorial.

Next cut out the pattern with a separate set of scissors, using your fabric scissors on paper will dull them faster. If you want to keep the pattern in tact you can use tracing paper and a wheel to trace the correct size OR you can fold at the cutting lines and snip through the curved areas (this is the easier method and the method we'll use this time). If you vary from sizes you can trace from the cutting line at one size to the cutting line of the next size. If you want to be able to use your pattern with multiple sizes you can fold the straight lines and clip in and fold on the curves like so. I have left a couple of places on the armscye unfolded so that you can see how it is clipped. If you need to use a larger size you can just unfold it back.

Helpful Hint: All the major pattern companies mark cutting lines but some independent companies mark seam lines. Always double check whether seam allowances are included and if so how wide they are.

  

All those symbols: Translating pattern symbols

Before we go anywhere else there is something beginners should know... what on earth do all those symbols mean???

You probably noticed in my previous post that the symbols are pretty short on explanation.

First off are the cutting lines. Some patterns use a single solid line for cutting lines (this one does). Some have a series of dashed lines, each indicating the next size down like these.

Typically on multisized patterns seam lines are NOT indicated. On single size patterns typically the solid line is the cutting line and the dashed line is the seamline. Cutting lines tell you wear to cut for a 5/8" seam line. If you would like a larger seam allowance you'll need to cut excess and mark your seam lines. If you are new to sewing its best to trace over your size with a felt tip marker or colored pencil. 

Next up are grainlines whole articles have been written about grainlines. They look like a line with an arrow on either end. On most patterns grainlines are either lengthwise (parallel to selvage) or bias (at a 45 degree angle to selvage. 

To make sure you are on grain you should use a ruler and measure from one end of the grainline to the selvage, then the other end of the grainline to the selvage. When the measurements are equal you are on grain. (Pictures will follow on cutting the pattern).

Last for the layout symbols are fold lines. They are a bracket with arrows pointed on either side to the side that should go "on the fold" The on the fold edge is never cut. To create the fold line put selvages together, the opposite side is where your fold line is. 

Next up are fit and alteration symbols. There are only two of these and they indicate fit points and where you should lengthen and shorten the pattern if necessary. 

The bust and hip indicators look like crosshairs for a target. This is where the circumference (remember the finished fit measurements?) for the finished item are measured from and this is where you would adjust width wise for enlarging plus size clothes. 

Then there are lengthen and shorten guides. These are two parallel, solid or dashed lines and should say lengthen or shorten here. These are where you would adjust for a shorter or longer waist, etc. 

Last are the assembly symbols. 

The most common are pattern notches, either one or 2 sides by side. They generally look like either a triangle or diamond on the cut line. These indicate where to match the seam lines. You will need to mark these on your fabric. There are a variety of ways to do this but the easiest is just make small snips with your scissors in the middle of the triangle. 

Another common symbol are dart symbols. Typically they look like a triangle with a small solid dot at the top, sometimes they look like a diamond with a small solid dot at either end. Darts will need to be marked as well and you will fold them over aligning each side and sew them. 

Darts usually originate from the waistline but there are many, many places a dart can be. Here are just a few

Depending on your pattern you may have markings for buttonholes, pleats, tucks, gathers, markings for pockets. 

Buttonhole marks look like a sideways I and indicate the placement and size of buttonholes. Button marks are an X and indicate placement of buttons.

Pleats, tucks, gathers, and markings for pockets generally have a solid dot to indicate and end point and a dashed line to indicate sewing lines. Our first pattern uses pleats so we shall see an example later in the construction.

Disclaimer: This doesn't include anything you'll ever see... please ask questions if you need to.

Deciphering Pattern Instruction Sheets

Pattern instruction sheets contain all the information you need from what to cut, to how to sew it together.

First up on most pattern instruction sheets are more line drawings with the letter labels.

Next are pattern pieces. Each line drawing will have a number, and under the drawings the numbers are listed and named. They will have letters beside them (ie A, B, C) corresponding to which pattern it goes to. In this case we will be cutting numbers 1- 6.

Depending on the layout next up is either the cutting instructions and layout or the general directions. You should always read the general directions first. These contain the pattern symbols, standard seam allowances, lengthening and shortening instructions, etc.

Last, before the sewing instructions is the cutting layout. These typically include a layout for 45” and 60” fabric. Fabrics are cut right (pretty) side UP for single layers and right sides together (wrong side out) for double layer (patterns that require cutting on the fold). (Note asymmetrical designs MUST be cut in single layers with right side up)

After the cutting layout are the actual construction steps but first we have to prepare our pattern and fabric, then cut it out.