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Friday, March 14, 2014

Sizing up For Plus Sizes

Sizing up For Plus Sizes

I use the method Barbara Deckert uses in her book Sewing for Plus Sizes. If you are plus size or regularly sew for someone who is I highly recommend this book.

You will need to take your measurements, the pattern size, and the amount to be adjusted. To find this take your measurements, the pattern measurements, and figure out the total change, some may be down so don't worry about that. Write down your calculations making sure to use a plus or minus sign to denote adding or subtracting width.



Your measurement
Pattern Size
Amount to Be Adjusted
Adjustment per Seam
Bust








Waist








Hips









Once you have calculated the amount to be adjusted count the vertical seams excluding the center front and center back. On this dress with just a front and back there are 4. Divide the amount to be adjusted by the number of vertical seams (4 in this case). If your fractions end up strange round UP to the nearest 8th. This amount is how much you will add or subtract from the cutting line. Mark each adjustment at the bust, waist, and hips on each seam and trace a line from each mark to the next. Its best to do this in a colored pen so you will see your lines.

Helpful Hint: If your adjustments are over 10 inches, counting the center back and center front will help keep the balance of the design. They would count as 4 more edges.


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