All those symbols: Translating pattern symbols

Before we go anywhere else there is something beginners should know... what on earth do all those symbols mean???

You probably noticed in my previous post that the symbols are pretty short on explanation.

First off are the cutting lines. Some patterns use a single solid line for cutting lines (this one does). Some have a series of dashed lines, each indicating the next size down like these.

Typically on multisized patterns seam lines are NOT indicated. On single size patterns typically the solid line is the cutting line and the dashed line is the seamline. Cutting lines tell you wear to cut for a 5/8" seam line. If you would like a larger seam allowance you'll need to cut excess and mark your seam lines. If you are new to sewing its best to trace over your size with a felt tip marker or colored pencil. 

Next up are grainlines whole articles have been written about grainlines. They look like a line with an arrow on either end. On most patterns grainlines are either lengthwise (parallel to selvage) or bias (at a 45 degree angle to selvage. 

To make sure you are on grain you should use a ruler and measure from one end of the grainline to the selvage, then the other end of the grainline to the selvage. When the measurements are equal you are on grain. (Pictures will follow on cutting the pattern).

Last for the layout symbols are fold lines. They are a bracket with arrows pointed on either side to the side that should go "on the fold" The on the fold edge is never cut. To create the fold line put selvages together, the opposite side is where your fold line is. 

Next up are fit and alteration symbols. There are only two of these and they indicate fit points and where you should lengthen and shorten the pattern if necessary. 

The bust and hip indicators look like crosshairs for a target. This is where the circumference (remember the finished fit measurements?) for the finished item are measured from and this is where you would adjust width wise for enlarging plus size clothes. 

Then there are lengthen and shorten guides. These are two parallel, solid or dashed lines and should say lengthen or shorten here. These are where you would adjust for a shorter or longer waist, etc. 

Last are the assembly symbols. 

The most common are pattern notches, either one or 2 sides by side. They generally look like either a triangle or diamond on the cut line. These indicate where to match the seam lines. You will need to mark these on your fabric. There are a variety of ways to do this but the easiest is just make small snips with your scissors in the middle of the triangle. 

Another common symbol are dart symbols. Typically they look like a triangle with a small solid dot at the top, sometimes they look like a diamond with a small solid dot at either end. Darts will need to be marked as well and you will fold them over aligning each side and sew them. 

Darts usually originate from the waistline but there are many, many places a dart can be. Here are just a few

Depending on your pattern you may have markings for buttonholes, pleats, tucks, gathers, markings for pockets. 

Buttonhole marks look like a sideways I and indicate the placement and size of buttonholes. Button marks are an X and indicate placement of buttons.

Pleats, tucks, gathers, and markings for pockets generally have a solid dot to indicate and end point and a dashed line to indicate sewing lines. Our first pattern uses pleats so we shall see an example later in the construction.

Disclaimer: This doesn't include anything you'll ever see... please ask questions if you need to.